From Our Readers

Candle Making problems, Local pickup of honey, Where can I get grape plants, I love my candles, Cinnamon Creamed Honey, Translating parts of our site int German & Varroa Mite problems, Where do you get your Bird scare eye ballons, Melting point of beeswax, Candle wick problems, More raw honey and wick questions

7/2/2008 - Brent Maness

I tried making beeswax candles from my leftover cappings, they looked good when I got finished but once lit I found out the middle of the candle was hollow, I don’t know the correct temperature to use and I poured the wax into pint jars. What is the right way to do this? Thanks, Brent Maness. Fairview, Virginia.

This is very typical of beeswax candles. I let our pillars cool at about 125 degrees so the wax is still soft. Then I poke a hole in the center and fill any voids with hot wax - then use a heat gun to gently melt the top area to make everything look normal.

Here is a file showing how we make our pillars.
Bill

Sat, 05 Jul 2008 - M. Sue Putnam

I live in Dryden and would like to know if I can order honey and pick it up at your place instead of it being shipped. Please advise!
Thank you!

Yes - You can go to our honey page and order whatever you wish. When you check out, just check "local pickup" and you can pay with a credit card or bring a check when you pick it up. I will pack your order and you can pick it up at your leisure after I email you that it is ready. A check can be left in a drop box on our porch.

Bill & Pat

6/24/2008 - Roger

Hi: You used to show a place to purchase Grape starts. I am looking for whom that might have been and have misplaced the name and contact information. I purchased one grape called Flame, and another called Maulaka. Two Maulaka plants did not take and I am trying to recognize who I bought them from. I think the company had a small ad in the corner of your website. Can you help me with this because there is no longer an ad.

Thanks, Roger L. Ruhmann

Roger

Here is our nursery listing page:
http://www.honeyflowfarm.com/links/partners19.htm

But I think you may have gone through Lon Romsbough, the Grape School
www.bunchgrapes.com/

Bill

Tue, 24 Jun 2008 - Yin

Dear Bill and Pat,

I received my candles yesterday and I love them! I know that they are made with loving and caring hands. Thank you very much. They really warm my heart.

Yin

6/14/2008 - mrichardson52

My wife is looking for raw cinnamon honey. I see you have cinnamon but does it come in raw? I'd rather purchase locally than have her order from the net!

Mark Richardson

(Formerly from Almont)

Most all of our honey is considered "Raw" Since we only heat it to 135 degrees.

Here is a page about raw honey:
honeyflowfarm.com/newsletters/2008/harvest/rawhoney.php

Bill

6/15/2008 - Linda Paese

I would like to know where you get the Owl Eye Balloons. I'd Like to use them in our Cherry tree's to keep the birds away.
Sincerely Yours,
Linda Paese

I get my balloons from Orchard Valley Supply:
www.orchardvalleysupply.com/

More resouces here:
www.honeyflowfarm.com/links/partners23.htm

Bill

6/9/2008 - Holger

Dear Bill Schnute,

This is Holger Grimme writing from Germany to you. I am 54 years old, worked for most time in Mongolia and China with translation works and have come back to Bavaria ten years ago from Asia. Since, I work with essential oils and developed treatments for bees with several bee keeping friends of mine. Three years ago I took a course in the Grand Rapids area of Michigan and thus am a bit familiar with your state.

I hope my message will reach you this time.

First, I like to congratulate you to your wonderful web page! Thank you so much for this great educational work showing the beekeeping around the year. Here In Germany we have about 50000 bee keepers (called Imker in German from Imme, another word for Biene, what is bee in English). If you allow, I would like to translate your website sections "A Year in the Bee Yards" and "Package Bee Installation" into German and make it available on the web here. We will surely give you all the credits and link to your web page. It would be a very good educational tool for bee keepers here in Germany, Austria and Switzerland ö all who speak German.

Over the past years, problems have caused havoc with bee keeping here. Several of my personal bee-keeping friends lost up to 50% of their colonies. The single most harmful cause for this is the infestation with varroa mites. We have developed some treatments with salt patties containing essential oils. The bees usually accept the grease patties within less than a day. The count of dead mites on the bottom board is about 8 times higher than untreated colonies.
Currently we set up a larger number of colonies to be treated this way in cooperation with a bee institute near the Rhine river, besides other apiaries of private bee keepers.
Besides the salt patties, we also use a vegetable oil mixture with essential oil applied on a paper napkin on top of the hives to control the mites of the drones that often get up there inside the hive.

As HBH is not offered here in Europe, we have a similar feeding addition developed, to be used later in the year. If we would ship the American HBH here, the cost would be enormous due to international transport, taxes and custom fees. Yet, we would be happy to work with HBH if they have an interest, to produce locally here inside the EU. Maybe you have some idea how to get in touch with the producers?

In recent years, more bee keepers than usual gave up their work with the bees. One reason is the varroa problem, the other is that the average age of bee keepers is quite high here and there are not so many young people filling the gaps these days. One reason for this is lack of education. If you permit the translation of your web page portions as mentioned above and let us use your pictures, that would help to raise interest with the younger and it would also be very interesting for all the other bee keepers.

So I am looking forward to your reply. Thank you for taking the time to drop me a line.

Kind regards,

Holger Grimme
Bavaria, Germany

Holger

Yes you may copy and translate these parts of our site.

We are still having major problems with varroa mites and now this colony colapse dissorder, which I think is just another offshoot of varroa problems. The last few years we have been using mops cords soaked in mineral oil, thymol and some essential oils -- similar to apilifevar. However we still get very large losses 60-80% this past year and most other beekeepers in our area had similar winter losses using other treatment methods. Some of us think in may now be related to the new strain of nosema. I have used grease patties in the past and they seem helpful also.

Send me a link to the translated pages when you get thim finished.

Bill Schnute

6/3/2008

Hi, I am thinking about buying a few of your Triple Wick Pillars. I have bought paraffin candles for large outdoor lanterns (glass on 4 sides ˆ in direct sunlight) and it gets too hot/candles melt. Can you please tell me at what temperature will these beeswax candles melt? Also, are these 100% beeswax or a mixture? Thanks - Bill

Beeswax will melt at a higher temperature - about 145 degrees & parrafin varies a lot by what mix but it is a lot lower. Our candles are pure beeswax. However, you may still have a problem with it melting in full sunlight. Some beekeepers use wax melters that are just boxes in glass and the sun melts the candle. You may want to try tinted or opague glass??
Bill

5/30/2008 - jdlhayes1985

I have come accross your site and see that you are experienced with beeswax candles. I keep trying different candle wicks for my beeswax candles and have been very unsuccessful with this and I am hoping you will advise me.

I have spent much on differennt wicks and the last one I purchases (thinking this was the one) was 44-32-18 Zinc but still once the flame hits the wax it goes out.

I thought maybe because I had used colorant in one pouring that was the cause - maybe to much color and scent. The the next try I used scent but no color but this did not help.

I am pouring votive candles - do you think that I need a larger size wick?

I want to be successful at candle making but so far not so good:)

I look forward to your suggestions.

Warmest Regards,

Linda Hayes
Reed City, MI

I get my candle wicks from candlewic.com. I use a #2 square braid for our dipped tapers, a "rrd - 37" wick tor our tea lites and a "rrd - 40" wick for our votives. I don't think color or scent should make much difference.

Bill

5/24/2008 - Tom Shaw

Good Morning,

We would like to purchase Raw Honey bulk, in our 5lb. Container.

Is it available now. May 24, 2008 ?

We are in Livonia, and will be glad to drive to the farm.

Thank you

Tom Shaw

Raw honey or filling of containers is only available from our Sales Stand in the Fall (September)

However you can order pails of honey through our website and make arrangements to pick them up when they are ready.

Bill

5/6/2008 - Dale Horeczy

Hello,

I live in Atlanta Georgia and just got my first bee hive so I am excited to read about your farm. I am trying to do some candles myself and was wondering if you sell wicks for votives and pillars? If not, can you tell me where to find it or what size to ask for? From what I've read, parrafin and beeswax are very different so want to make sure I'm getting the right stuff.

Thanks!

Dale Horeczy

I get most all of my wicks from candlewic.com. I use a #2 square braid wick for our hand dipped tapers, a rrd40 wick for our votives, and 44d37 wick for our tea lites.

Good luck - Bill

5/6/2008 - Jan

Hi I am interested in buying some raw unfiltered organic honey in bulk. Can you tell me what you have? Thanks Jan Carl

The only raw honey we have now is in small containers:
http://www.honeyflowfarm.com/qs30/products.php?detail=1&pid=46

We will have raw honey at our sales stand in the fall.

We do have unfiltered honey now in pails:
http://www.honeyflowfarm.com/qs30/products.php?detail=1&pid=57

No one can really say their honey is organic - we have no control over where the bees visit.

Bil

Thanks Bill, I understand what you are saying about organic and that you have no control over where the Bees go but do you feed your bees any kind of sugar or corn syrup? Is all the honey you sell raw? Has any of the honey been heated? I am just trying to make the best decison I can when I buy my next batch of honey. I would like local which you are but I just want to make sure the honey I get is in it's most natural form possible. Thanks again , Jan Carl

Here is info about our honey:
http://www.honeyflowfarm.com/newsletters/2008/harvest/rawhoney.htm

Bill

5/6/2008 - April

Hello,

Do you sell raw unfiltered honey? I am interested in purchasing a few pounds.

Thank you,
April

We have raw honey on this page:
http://www.honeyflowfarm.com/qs30/products.php?detail=1&pid=

Purchasing honey at the farm, CCD questions, Purchasing bulk honey, Purchasing bee pollen, Bad chemicals that can be released from parrafin wax, Whitefly problems, Growing grapevine questions, Pasteurized honey, Picking up bulk beeswax, Grape vine questions from Texas, Pillar weight questions, Wants to become a 4-H leader in beekeeping, Honeybee wax and mineral oil

4/29/2008 - Antoinette

Hello,

I recently purchased a small jar of raw honey from Discount Nutrition in my area.  I'm curious about where in Dryden your honey farm is located because our daughter moved into the Village of Dryden about 1-1/2 years ago.   I also was wondering if she could just stop by your honey farm to pick up some honey when I need it.  She, her husband and son live on Union Street.  I prefer buying honey from the source rather than a retail store unless the retail store is connected to your farm.  

Antoinette Madaj

We are located abut 2 miles directly south of town on Mill red & General Squire.  We do not have normal open hrs.  We are open to public in September on the weekends where you can fill your containers with bulk raw honey.
http://www.honeyflowfarm.com/grapepages/farminfo.htm

At Any Time however, you can order honey from our website
http://www.honeyflowfarm.com/qs30/honey.php
and have your daughter pick it up from our porch, and pay with credit card or check.

Bill

4/28/2008 - Natalie and Melissa

Dear Honey Flow Farm,
We are two high school seniors from Randolph, New Jersey.  We are currently doing an independent study on colony collapse disorder.  We were wondering if you had come into contact with CCD and if you would be willing to send us some samples of bees from collapsing hives.
Thank you for your help,
Natalie and Melissa

We have been losing a lot of bees over the winter - and it may or may not be "Colony Collapse Disorder".  The beekeeping industry has had periods of high losses many time over the last 100 years.  I think a lot of this is varroa mite and virus related.

Bill Schnute

4/16/2008 - Aaron Franz

good afternoon,
 
i am interested in purchaseing some bulk honey and was wondering how i go about doing that.
thank you
 
Aaron Franz

Go to this link:
http://www.honeyflowfarm.com/qs30/products.php?detail=1&pid=57

Bill

4/9/2008 - Hallie

Hello -  I was told that if I start taking bee pollen orally before allergy season hits, that my allergies won't be so bad.  Do you sell bee pollen or could I get some somehow?  I would like to try and purchase some this weekend if possible.  I live in leonard and could meet you anytime this weekend if you are available.  Please let me know if this is at all possible.  Thanks.

Hallie J. Richter

I am sorry but we do not sell bee pollen.

Bill

3/21/2008 - Rebecca

Hi.
I found your website yesterday and I am very excited to buy your candles.  I just read about all of the bad chemicals that can be released from parrafin wax.  Also, I am from MI and like giving business to Michiganders! 

I couldn't find on your website what your scented candles are scented with.  The main reason I am switching to beeswax is because regular candles are not good for your health.  But, if candles are scented with synthetic fragrances, that isn't any better.  Could someone please tell what they are scented with???

Thank you!

Rebecca Prichard

A few of our candles are scented with perfume fragrances from candlewic.com. (Cinnamon, bayberry etc) - But the majority are just pure beeswax with the natural scent of honey.  Only a few votives and Christmas candles have any scent. 

Our candles are made from pure beeswax which is made from the nectar of flowers and not from crude oil.

Here is our candle FAQ section: http://www.honeyflowfarm.com/articles/faq/candlemakingfaqs.htm

Bill & Pat

Happy (almost Easter) Bill. Hope all is well for you. Within the first few years of taking care of this older grapevine, I never had any whitefly. The last two years they have returned  with a vengeance . They are more of a nuisance and do not seem to harm the vine. But there are SO many. Is there something I can do now to prevent whitefly ( I do not prefer any herbicides or pesticides). Thank you for your time and input, I greatly appreciate it all.
Sincerely, Cindy.

There may e some insecticidal soaps you can use - check with the MSU Extension.  If they do not harm the vine they may not be a problem.

Bill

3/16/2008 - Randy

Thanks for your great web site.    Just started to make wine from kits.  Like what I have so far and plan to try fresh grapes from your farm this year.  Glad you are nearby, we live in Groodrich.   What kind of soil do you have on the farm?  I have an area about 1 acres that gets full sun where I could grow vines but haven't a clue as to how or what kind to grow. 
 
How do I test my soil to see if it would be favorable to grape vines?
 
Do you sell cuttings to grow vines from?
 
Thank You in Advance
 
Randy Armstead

Randy

Grapes grow good in typical garden soil - Ours has a lot of clay in it.

Come in the fall & experiment with a few varieties for wine.  I am sure your soil will work out fine.  We do not sell grape plants, but have lots of links on our site.  I would experiment, learn some more and maybe think about planting a few vines next spring.

Bill

Hello Bee friends. I recently had a kidney transplant and the doctor has said I can no longer eat honey unless it is pasteurized. I hate to give up my honey. Do you carry a pasteurized brand? Thank you so much.
Marcia Wright
 

Most beekeepers do not pasteurize their honey - but you can do it.  I would get a thermometer & put the honey (open the top and insert the thermometer) in a pan with hot water on the stove and heat the honey to 160 - 180 degrees for 10-15 minutes.  That should pasteurize it - you might want to check with your DR. on temperatures.  The honey may darken slightly and change flavor. Do not boil the honey - that would really damage it.

Bill

3/20/2008 - Sue

I would like to buy some of your beeswax and pick it up. You used to have a page on your site for bulk pricing, are you just selling at the 14 lb size now?

Thank you!

Sue Grieves

Sue

I just adjusted the page so you can order wax with the same rates as the Flat Rate boxes.  You can now process your order, select "Local Pickup" and also chose to pay by credit card or leave a check ("Send in Payment")

Bill

3/6/2008 - Ed

Hi....
I am just getting started in growing grapes. I have ordered 50 2 year old vines. They will be planted in Round Top Texas which is close to Austin Texas. I have done some research on the subject of trellis building and mold control. I have not, but should have done some study on planting the vines, getting soil tested, types of fertilizer. I have read something about boron, how do you get boron to the root system?
My question: could you go step by step from digging the hole, inserting the fertilizer and type of fertilizer, how deep the hole should be, should soil mix be added or use what came out of the hole, etc.  All the other stuff beyond that, I can do some research on.
Also how many inches away from the hole should the support trellis be from the hole. I bought a small augur to start the trellis pole in. I was going to use a small shovel to dig the hole for the vines.
If you have the time to reply, thanks!
Ed Hardcastle

Hello Ed

I am not sure how to answer your questions. 

Texas climate is much different than Michigan - I think you would be planting different kinds of vines - what did you order?  We plant our vines 8 ft apart in rows from 9.5 to 13.5 ft wide.  (Usually just enough to get your equipment through)

To plant you dig a hole big enough to spread the roots around - 12 inch square usually is plenty.  Getting soil tested is useful - but I would NOT put any fertilizer on the vines the first few years - you may burn the roots.  When they start bearing a crop is when you really need fertilizer.  (Maybe some weak liquid fertilizer if you want - but do not put dry fertilizer in the planting hole.)

I have a support trellis that is a 8 ft post (2 ft in ground) and one every 3 vines (24 ft) - so the closest a post gets to a vine is 4 ft. If you are using a wood post for each vine like in California - I know nothing about that - those vines are pruned different.  I use a sing or double curtain training system.

Good luck in you vineyard.

Bill

Hello
Which one of your pillar candles would be equal to this:
 
http://www.johnstonhoney.com/giftshop/details.asp?id=CAN01
 
One pound version.

Mike

Our pillars are a little larger - the one shown is probably a 3 inch wide pillar & ours are 3.5 inch and would contain more wax.

Our 3inch tall X 3.5 inch wide pillar weighs 1lb and cost $12.75
http://www.honeyflowfarm.com/qs30/products.php?pid=15&detail=true
The one you indicate weighs 1lb & cost $15 but is smaller in diameter. This could also be "shipping weight" that may be less than the actual weight. Usually you are paying for the amount of wax in the candle.

Our 6 inch X 3.5 inch wide pillar weighs 1.9lb and cost $19.25
http://www.honeyflowfarm.com/qs30/products.php?detail=1&pid=16

Hi,

I was wondering if you could give me a few rational pointers.  My kids would like me to be a 4-H leader. We've toyed with different projects and I stumbled on your website. I've heard about the plight of the honey bees recently and thought since I'm trying my hand at organic gardening, this might be an ideal project.

Firstly, would I be nuts to try this with youngsters? Secondly, as a gardening hobby, what approx. are start up costs? I'm looking more for pollinating and a little honey, nothing commercial. Do you give lessons are would you adopt a 4-H group in terms of training? We live b/w Flint and Lansing, semi-rural.  Is this a labor intensive project after start up?

I guess what I'm asking, if you had a moment and could provide me with any tips, pointers or help, I'd really appreciate it.  If you don't think it'd be a good idea, I should probably know that too.

Many Thanks,

Cathy

Hello Cathy

A 4-H leader teaching beekeeping would be a fine idea. Costs for a colony is around $100 or so and everyone would need a veil & suit.  It is not labor intensive at all.  A good place tostart would be the Seven Ponds Nature Center South Eastern Mi Beekeepers Association group. (in Dryden) They meet once a month and their goal is to work with groups such as yours.  They have a few colonies that the members look at  every month.  Call Nancy Schleibe at 1-810-395-7379 - She runs the group. 

Here is a link to SEMBA   http://www.sembabees.org/

From our Winter 2008 Issue
Click here to view the Newsletter

Pruning vines in backyard, Do you press grapes? Upper Michigan Winery wants some Foch, Do you do bee presentations? A beekeeper makes comments, Likes our products, good vine pruning pictures, Long conversation with another candlemaker, Lots of beeswax, candlemaking & wick size questions, Red Beeswax? Prompt service, Neat beeswax fire starters

2/15/2008 - Cindy Ford

I wanted you to read our conversation before regarding pruning the grapes in our yard. It has been awhile. I appreciated your input and unfortunately listened to "anothers" opinion. Spring ....is it a reference to after frost season or a specific time frame? Thank you for your time. Hope the New Year has started off with continous positiveness.
Sincerely, Cindy Ford.

Cindy
I am not sure where you are located - But there is no  reason to prune vines early.  Wait until the weather is nice outside in the spring - the later the better.  If you wait until the buds start to swell you can even tell if the vine has been winter damaged or not.  The only downside to late pruning is that you may rub off some buds when you are pulling canes around.  We prune our vines around Easter time.  If you were a large vineyard with a huge amount to prune you would have to start earlier to get the job done - but I like to wait until the weather is better.  If you live in a climate like Michigan there is NO reason that you need to prune your vines in January.

Bill

2/14/2008 - Larry J. Suarez

Next year when i purchase some chardonnel grapes from you can i crush and press them right there are do i need to buy a press.

Larry J. Suarez

You need to purchase a press.  The crusher-stemmer we have available will not press the grapes into juice - just crush them.

I had some chardonnel last year - it was excellent.

Bill

1/22/2008 - Leigh Schmidt

I am currently working to start a winery in Michigan's Upper Peninsula. If things continue to move along as they have, I should be able to start production, with approval, in Sept.

I have a small vineyard that will be producing for the first time this coming year.  I am looking to supplement my local production for a couple of years with grapes from another source. 

Currently I am looking to supplement my Marechal Foch grape production with  approximately 400-500 pounds of Foch grapes.  As I see by your website, you carry Foch grapes.  Would I be able to purchase this amount from your vineyard whether I have you ship the amount to me, or I travelled there to pick them? 
Thank you, Mr Leigh Schmidt

We will have Foch grapes this fall.  You are welcome to come down and pick them.  We do not ship grapes.   Are you growing Frontenac - that should do well in your area?

Bill

Yes I have Frontenac, Frontenac Gries, LaCrescent, Prairie Star, Foch, and Sabrevois.  All are in their second year and doing very well.   I can take a small crop from some vines  this coming fall, but won't be sufficient enough to generate  the amount I will need to balance out.  So I have to supplement for a few years.  The remainder I am getting from a friend in Minnesota, John Marshall, who supplied me with the original vines and continues to assist me in getting started.  He's involved with the Minnesota Grape Growers Association.

Having visited your website before I seem to remember your picking week for Foch was early September, is that typical, or due to the warm, dry summer we experienced last year?  Looking forward to coming there this Fall,       Leigh

1/15/2008 - Brenda Dunseth

My name is Brenda, I am a librarian in the youth department at Highland Township Public Library.  This summer our reading program theme is "Catch the Reading Bug", because of this theme we are looking for programs that could educate children about some of the prominent "bugs" in our community.  Do you have a bee presentation that you take to schools or local children's organizations?  If not, do you know of anyone who does?

Brenda Dunseth
Youth Services Librarian
Highland Township Public Library

We do not have such presentations but your could contact SE Mich Beekeepers Association at http://www.sembabees.org/
Bill

1/15/2008 - George DeLange

I just came across your page while browsing for grape pruning.

Wow! Nice Page!

You and I have the same interests. But, I now just grow a few grapes at a mountain home.

I taught beekeeping for several years an I must say your page is the most up to date and best I have seen on the web.

Here is one of my pages so you can see my old bee trailor and some of my beekeeping. It was on a small scale, but different than you have seen.

http://www.delange.org/Bees1/Bees1.htm

Regards,

George DeLange

Just wanted to say thank you for the best photos on the internet on pruning grape vines. Reading is one thing, seeing is great. I now understand how my vines should look after pruning - MARY BURGESS

12/17/2007

I want to thank you for your willingness to teach the processes behind your candles.  A year and a half ago we started one hive on an impulse, and in our low-tech cutting off of the caps, we ended up with quite a bit of wax.  I picked up some wick and made a couple pairs of very rough tapers, and was hooked. 

We were given 20 lbs of wax for Christmas last year, and in researching how to dip, I found your website.  I've now made 4 generations of dipping frames - each tweaking the design a little (having the nails up top enter at an angle so the candles are more securely on the frame once you cut the bottoms, adding a screw that sticks out an inch from the side of the frame so they all space on the clothesline, giving myself a little more space between the candles, going up to 4pr per side, etc.).  We started selling some of our candles at the bookstore that my wife works at, and things have taken off for us from there.  We're now at the end of our first year candlemaking, and we've gone through 1700+ lbs of wax.

A couple of months ago we moved from a couple of double boilers made from 2 stockpots each, to a used wax melter (16" diameter inside, about 20" deep, approx 100lbs of wax, 1.5" water jacket all around), heated with a 1500watt element.  We use the double boilers to melt the raw wax, letting the sediment settle, and pour it through some honey straining cloth into the larger melter.  I'm very glad we moved to the melter as I don't think we would have survived the Christmas season without it, but my precious handdipped candles have suffered.  With the double boilers, I quickly learned that wax that was too cool (<170F) or too hot (>185F) would result in ripples on the surface of the candle, and got pretty good at a uniform smooth surface. 

For some reason, now that I'm using this wax melter (which allows me to make candles longer than 8"), I can't find the right temperature.  I know I'm supposed to aim for 173F-175F,  but no matter what I do I get ripples.  I can't express how frustrating this is.  The people who stock our candles say I'm being to fussy, and that nobody but another candlemaker would notice, but I notice, and I can't seem to do anything about it.  I've tried cooler wax, hotter wax, longer spaces between dips, shorter spaces between dips, prayer.  Do you have any insight that may be of help to me?  I would appreciate any feedback you can give.

Thanks! Carl Heaman-Warne (frustrated candlemaker)
Visit us online at: www.wilddogfarms.ca

Try using cooler wax, hotter wax, longer spaces between dips, shorter spaces between dips, & prayer.

 

All kidding aside - we run into some of the same problems.  I think keeping the wax at a steady temperature helps - I was recently adding cold wax to a tank adjacent to the one I was dipping out of (they are in the same barrel of hot water) and I think it kept the wax temp from being uniform from top to bottom - since the heating element was on.

 

My bottom line is I really don't know - we have had similar problems - possibly some wax may have contaminants or some varietal sources of wax act different.  We just live with the occasional marks on the candles - we do not get them all the time and have not been able to put an exact finger on the problem - just keep doing what works and avoid what you know is a problem.  I usually let the candles cool a bit before redipping.  If we continuously dip the candles can get too warm. (I usually keep the setting on my water thermostat to about 185 (The wax temp may be less)

 

Good luck - I think you have the right idea - using cooler wax, hotter wax, longer spaces between dips, shorter spaces between dips, & prayer. - Bill

Thanks for the reassurance!  That night I tried again, and got better results dipping dead slow, but still some lines.  I let the wax cool right down overnight and opened the drain once it had solidified.  I was shocked to get 1.5 gallons of water out of the bottom.  I'm going to try dipping again tonight and see if getting rid of the water in the wax helps.  Apparently we have a leak!

Merry Christmas! Carl.

We use a tank with 4 compartments http://www.honeyflowfarm.com/articles/tapers/tapers.htm

2 of them have water in the bottom half, and 2 do not.  Routinely we have to empty the tanks because water or debris get in when we pour wax from one tank to another.  You may have a lot of dirt on the bottom also - you may want to take all the wax out (melted) & clean the tank completely.  You may have a leak as you suggest.  My old tanks were sealed with epoxy and they always leaked.  My new ones are stainless steel welded. Bill

I like your set-up!  We didn't have much dirt - we had recently cleaned it, but there was a lot of water.  I also checked and it seems that there was as much as a 10 degree F difference in wax temperature depending on where I took the reading - which is wayyy too much.  The candles in the middle of the frame were getting a 175F wax, and the outer ones were getting 165F (tooo cold) (or was it the other way around?)

   I wonder if our wax pool is too big for the mass of heated water surrounding it.  The inner tank is approx 16" diameter with a sloping floor 16" deep at the shallow end and 20" deep at the deep end, with a 2" water jacket on all sides.  It would be great if I could circulate the wax in the melter, but that would stir up all the gunk and mix the water throughout.  Maybe it's time we bite the bullet and get a larger dipping tank with small compartments, and use this as our starting pool where we can add whole bricks of wax and filter from.

Thanks for letting me bounce these ideas off of you.
Merry Christmas! Carl.

12-30-07 It looks like you have a larger volume of water around your wax than we do.  Our tanks fit fairly tightly in the barrel we use.  Try new tanks - I think this is good you have brought up the idea of temp differentials.  I am now watching more closely what is in the 2 tanks adjacent to the one I dip out of.  Sometimes one can get low and then It is just cool air instead of water or hot wax. next to the dipping tank.

Good luck - Bill

What size is the heater element that you use?  I'm thinking that I would use our current melter for our dirty wax tank, pour and filter from there into the 3 new tanks, and dip into one, then the next then the 3rd then back into the first - giving the others time to reheat.  Does this make sense or am I going overboard ( I have a tendency to do that at times...)?  I'm thinking the temps will even out much better this way.  Do you ever cycle your dipping between several of your vats?

Let me know if you find a difference keeping the other tanks full vs. empty. 

Happy new year to you! Carl

12/23/2007 - Jesse
 
Hello, My name is Jesse Howe. My question is ; what is the best way to heat beeswax for dipping candles? Will a propane source of heat work or does it have to be electric? Do you know of supply companies that sell these types of products?
 
Thank you and I really like your web site!!
 
Jesse

Any source of heat can work as long as the container of wax is in a water bath. Do not heat the wax directly - as the temperature will not be uniform and there is a very good chance of fire.  I like electricity.  You can put an electric hot water heater element with a thermostat in a 10 gallon  (I use a 55 gallon barrel) container to hold your wax container.  Candlewic.com has wax melters - I have always made mine.  I use thermostats form Walter T. Kelly Co. (www.kelleybees.com) a bee supply outfit.  They sell thermostats and heater elements - I must have 6 or more in service around our farm for warming honey tanks.

Bill

12/21/2007 - Zvonko

I have a few pounds of yellow bees wax and I would like to make a few tea light candles for my family.

I was told by a candle wick company that I must have still to much honey mixed in with the wax.

This causes a problem with trying to find out which wick to use and to get long burning time.

My questions are:

If I would melt down the whole batch of the bees wax that I have, would that help to get the honey out of it.

So once it is melted, do I just pore it into something and the honey should stay on the bottom when it cools down.

Is there something that I am missing out?

I would very much appreciate your advice and help.

Thank you very much for your time and wanting to help me out.

Zvonko

You have the right idea - melt the beeswax and let it settle - the honey and some debris will settle to the bottom.  Then strain the hot wax, by dipping it out with a coffee can into another container.  Watch the wax being dipped out and stop when you see dirt or honey - it will look different.

I get our wicks from candlewic.com and use a rrd37 wick for tealites and a rrd40 wick for votives.

Bill

12/19/2007 - Holly

Hello: We only use beeswax candles. At Christmas it would be nice to use red beeswax. Do they exist? Holly

I have not seen red beeswax candles - The only thing we add to beeswax is an occasional scent.

Bill

12/15/2007, you wrote:

HI,  I am trying to make beeswax candles and I was wondering if you wouldn't mind telling me what size wick you use for this size candle:  3.5 inch wide x 6 inch tall pillars.
I would greatly appreciated it.
Nicole

I use a #4 square braid cotton wick that I get from candlewic.com

Bill

14 Dec 2007

Dear Bill & Pat:

I received my candle order yesterday.  I have never had beeswax candles, I thought I would try them.  They are so beautiful and fragrant, I am so pleased. 

Thank you for your prompt service and superior product!

Kindly,
Carolyn Skinner

12/1/2007 - Hello

I am writing to ask what is hopefully a quick question regarding candle wick size and type for hand dipped candles.

Background ..... my wife introduced me to candle making for Christmas gifts for friends about 15 years ago.  We had been using wick from a large spool a friend gave her long ago which has no size or type written on it.  This wick seemed to work perfectly as the candles burned long without dripping.  Unfortunately we finally ran out of this wick.   Last year we purchased some #5/0 Square Braid wicking.  The candles seemed to drip a lot from when burned approximately 1/2 way down.  Also the wick would ball up sometimes rather than curling.  We dip to a standard 7/8 taper.

Would you be willing to tell me the size and type of wick you use and possibly the supplier ?

Some pics of our family candle dipping are attached.

Many thanks and best wishes for a wonderful holiday season !

Mark E-W

Your candles look very nice.  I think your wicks are too small. We use a #2  (NOT 2/0) square braid wicks from CandleWic for our 7/8 inch candles (their number w-16 or w-47).  http://www.candlewic.com/        
   
We use a 1/0 for our smaller 5/8 candles.   It is VERY important to have the right size wick - sometimes you have to experiment.  I assume you are using beeswax (it looks like it)  Parrafin candles use a smaller wick.


Good luck with your candlemaking.

Bill

12/12/2007

Before I set our house on fire I would really appreciate your advice 
about a small project I am about to undertake.


I am surrounded if not swamped with pine cones and I thought I might 
pick a huge number of them up and then melt you plain beeswax in say 
a crock pot.  Then after the wax melted I was going to toss in a 
product called Rainbow Flame Crystals which would throw off colors 
when tossed in the fireplace.  To the liquid was I might also add a 
pine perfume.

People all over the internet have all sorts of ideas and the one I'm 
talking about here worries me only in this way.  The pine cones will 
get coated and cool down but when they are later tossed in a 
fireplace am I looking at trouble in the way of a fire caused by a 
meltdown?  You guys are the experts so I will defer to you - and if 
it works out I send you a few!

Many thanks.

Helen Holmes

I have never done it, but it sounds like a neat idea.  Putting small amounts of wax in the fireplace will just get your fire going quicker.  If your put lots of them in (20-30) it might be a problem.

I make what I call wax logs - which are a byproduct of extracting honey and wax and put them in the fireplace all the time.  Just don't use too much at once.